This is the second test blog article

This is the first blog test article

Hi Everybody, this is me just testing my new blog. Thanks, have fun, cheers - It's great to be in DIY!



Hi, this is Lukas, and I design stuff. You can send me a schematic and I turn it into a PCB for 20€/hr. I have this relatively low price because I understand how PCB work, if done correctly, can expand and go through all kinds of troubleshooting and error revisions and so easily bust the scope of a budget, and what you really need in order to make a good electronic device is time. Time is the key factor in a lot of thigs, from slow processes in cooking to really working out all the faults in a PCB design (let alone the analog design itself - check out "Troubleshooting Analog Circuits" by Bob Pease). And I enjoy a lot of what I do so would rather be doing great work in analog audio than for example designing a modem for a corporation for 55€/hr.


My standards are Illustrator (yes Illustrator) because I think, personally, that especially when you're working in DIY and want to share projects, everybody has a different idea of what the right software is, and everybody works with a different CAD Package and even then standards between versions of the same software let alone library discrepancies can make documents impossible for third parties to work with 5 or even 10 years down the line. With vector PDFs that contain embedded layers, and there being one constant across the world of people who own computers, everybody has some version of Illustrator and Photoshop lying around somewhere or can obtain one, making that the lowest, if you will, common denominator for software to design PCBs with.


Illustrator has layers and vectors, so you have everything you need to design massively professional PCBs. The only thing it doesn't have is forward-back annotation and the rubber band feature that makes it easier to lay out components along with an autorouter to replace das brain. However, what you do have is absolute free form vector design with no fettering of your muse when it comes to designing whatever shapes you wish, as can be seen in the lovely flowing design of Michael Kingston up above.


One thing that is a pain indeed is the conscientions checking and re-checking of every node vs the schematic instead of just running software based checks, but even then software can't catch a mistake in your schematic, and I do believe that keen eyes and a sharp mind and the learned ability to go back and forth between schematic and design is a cool skill to have, even though I spit brass tacks over the tedium of doing it all by hand but then again we're not in the days of Bishop Paper anymore, either.


For the more "professional" approach, I also work in CADsoft/Autodesk Eagle and was going to get into Altium sometime in the future but not sure when. Eagle is one of those packages that's also quite omnipresent, and Autodesk has done a lot to round out the software. I very much appreciate KiCAD, too, but I don't actively work in it. But everybody at the university does. Except Tom, who works in Altium.


You can write me on the contact page to get a quote and discuss ideas and projects. All data you send me is under strict Non-Disclosure terms and will never be shared in any form with anyone online without your permisson, even to friends "hey, Bob, look at this cool DOA design" and bang it suddenly shows up somewhere in a forum.


That said, most people in DIY are super happy to share their designs and real success at handcrafted audio like most people here do consists of hand and craft and I know practically no one among those craftsmen who sell units at high standards that steal other people's original designs and copy them. There is a plethora of great analog designs in the vaults of analog history that are not being produced in that way anymore, and what makes a build stand out these days is, aside from originality and cool-ness of a circuit design, the quality of the build itself.


Okay that's enough of me yakking - go out and do something cool!



Joomla forms builder by JoomlaShine


Prices are in Euros, 19ct/cm2 Single Layer, 24ct/cm2 Dual Layer

4-8€ Setup Charge per board (sizes DIN A4 - A3), Single Layer, and 8-16€ Dual Layer

25€ Digital Setup Charge for documents that cannot be directly printed, e.g. converting Eagle or other CAD output
to pictures, or stuff like that in general (resolution issues etc).

Transparencies are retained indefinitely or for 5 years, whichever comes first.

5€ minimum board price.

Immersion Tin 1€/Board Side up to 200cm2, above it's 2€

No Silkscreen, Soldermask or HAL.

Through-Plating Rivets - 20ct/pc.


Joomla forms builder by JoomlaShine




Welcome to Living Note Studio!


Home and Lair of PCB Designer and Etch Artist Lukas Meier.


Located in Berlin, Germany, I have been designing and etching for the Audio DIY community for the past 10 years. If you like music electronics and enjoy building your own stuff, you're never alone around here. I went crazy about electronics and the arts as a kid, and etching was always a paramount fascination. A PCB is the key to a full-fledged device, and I love being able to take a schematic and turn it into a working unit.



I offer both design services and etching for projects that you want to build, with a deep emphasis on maintaining the kind of quality that was in regular use throughout the 20s and 30s vintage devices, all the way through into somewhere around the 80s, when corners began getting cut and the quality of PCB manufacture took a nose dive in the direction of volume, at the expense of the finished devices.


After servicing a 90s 5.1 receiver and watching the thing basically disintegrate in my hands, I decided I had had enough of these built-to-break units, and with highly refined copper, solid mechanical rivets and MIL-spec FR4 epoxy substrate, opened my shop for those who are still particular about serious build quality and don't want to have to worry about whether or not their supplier gives them what they want. When you order a PCB, you are getting real high-quality, handcrafted work at industry standard pricing, accepting all formats that come in black and white, be that JPG, Vector or Bitmap.



With Best Regards,


Lukas Meier


Living Note Studio Berlin





Welcome to Livingnote's PCB Lab!



I discovered the online audio build community, and in particular GroupDIY back in 2007 and it quickly became a super addictive playground for me, fueled by the tremendous excitement of the people there and a passion since being a kid to build my own "little machines" that I could plug together and play with. Studio electronics is basically made for all that, and so I started this PCB lab for Design, Prototyping and High-Quality Audio.

To me, compromise in mechanical stability was never an option, and particularly not when you are putting all your love in it, and all these amazing components all night long. If you're precision matching capacitors and other parts to get circuits to really ring, you want the thing to never, ever go out of kilter, and if it does, you want to be able to fix it as easily as possible. With all this stuff in mind I developed kindofa build philosophy around stability and repairability.




I started out making all my PCBs from scratch, and it was fun. Particularly what was cool was that I could select my own quality for PCB material and really practice with it. A good etch lab puts you squarely in the driver's seat of your design process, but apparently not everyone thinks chemicals plus living room are a good idea. So I opened the workshop to the public and created a PCB offering tailored to the needs of making audio devices mechanically awesome - finest MIL-Spec epoxy laminated with copper from a noteworthy refinery in Northern Germany, bare or with immersion tin, to fuse with the solder of your choice.




The vias I use are solid mechanical rivets that are individually milled in and staked by hand. Especially in DIY, through plating can become an issue when you are doing a lot of rework, and even on professional boards with high grade vias you can easily burn stuff out with your soldering iron replacing components. With rivets, what you get is a lasts-forever through-hole, and while you do have to pre-solder a bit to ensure great contact, it'll hold through any kind of testing and repair you throw at it. Also, the chemical through plating process is one that is super critical and cost intensive, and not something you can do sporadically, and so I opted to stay with this more classical, old-world steampunk style.


What that leaves you with is a board from which you can build units that are practically indestructible, road worthy, and capable of being repaired long into the future.


Click Here for Pricing and to request a Quote

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